Luckily, my time in India is winding down. Let me first say, before I go on tangents, that, in general, India is a nice country. I've met some truly wonderful people here and I enjoyed their company very much. I just don't know if I'll ever want to put myself through this again.
India is so exhausting. Never mind the unbearable heat and humidity (I know- my fault for planning a trip in August), it's just the daily grind of life here that makes the country somewhat intolerable. I can't go anywhere without being harassed to buy something and I truly cannot trust anyone I meet in the street. Asking something as simple as "where can I find a tea shop?" and you get a response like "Oh no, all tea shops in the city are closed because (insert ridiculous excuse). Let me take you to buy silk pajamas. Very nice price."
On Sunday I wanted to go to the Gandhi Museum to see where he spent his last months and to see the spot where he was killed. I found a young-ish rickshaw driver and asked him to take me there. "Oh no," he said. "It's closed today." I asked why, knowing good and well that it was open. "Because it's Sunday of course. But I will take you to the India Gate. Come, get in." I rolled my eyes, walked away and found a driver that would take me there. Seriously, why does it have to be so difficult? Why couldn't he just take me there? He lost money because he lied to me. Where is the economic sense in that?
You see, in this country (at least from my experience-India apologists feel free to disagree), as a foreigner, your guard must be up 24/7. People are trying to get you to part with your money on every corner. Remember the other day when I asked the driver for an ATM and he took me on a ride? I found an ATM the next day only 100 yards from my place. It just gets so tiring trying to separate out all the BS.
I think the straw that broke the proverbial camel's back was yesterday when I went to the Taj Mahal in Agra. Even once you pay the money to get inside you are constantly bombarded with "guides" looking to show you around. You can't step 50 feet without being bothered. One guy followed us (I met two Colombians and an Italian I traveled with for the day) almost 200 yards, being most helpful in directing us where to get the tickets and the admission process. Of course, he also wanted to sell us a "tour" of the place. We declined. It just continued all day long. Our hired driver wanted to show up "Emporiums" where we could get souvenirs for cheap. Outside every place there are women with naked babies touching their lips and saying "Chapathi" which is a bread and then motioning for us to give them money. There are many many more instances of this during the day, I just don't have time (nor do you really want to read) to recollect them all. It just became so exhausting and irritating that I just wanted to get back to my hotel room and read a book.
Please know that I understand the disparity between these folks and myself. I realize that they're just trying to get by in life in whatever way they can. It must be a horrible life not knowing where your next meal will come from. If anything it's a sobering reminder of just how good I have life back in the States. Even the poorer folks in the States have it better than this portion of the Indian population. I feel truly bad for their condition but question how much I am really helping.
I really debate on giving money to the homeless. In the States I sometimes (as most do) hold back because we believe they will all just go buy more liquor or drugs with it. India is different. No doubt these people are starving and really just want to eat. (I forgot to tell this story earlier, but in Cambodia I actually had a kid come up and steal food off my plate as I sat at a street cafe.) But what kind of culture does it create? These people then become dependent on handouts for life and never really become productive members of society.
I don't have answers. I just know that all the incessant begging and touts trying to dupe me have left a bad taste in my mouth. India, as wonderful and exotic of a country as it is, is extremely difficult for traveling. It is difficult to know who to trust and who not to trust. I've been a lot of places and seen a lot of things, but India is in a class all it's own. Here to hoping I haven't pulled all my hair out by the time I land in Jordan tomorrow night.
4 comments:
Well I know what you mean, I had similar experiences in Nepal, although I am sure that being there in August only exacerbated the situation. Still, you did win an air freshener ;)
read some more Victor Hugo and how he says that all of this is a product of the society, thus,everyone's responsibility...
Remember, in India, there is a caste system. Not to discount anything you said, but the beggers simply cannot make a better life for themselves, because they're not allowed to better themselves. it's a very rare instance when someone improves the lot in life they were born into. So, be annoyed with those who are trying to dupe you, but say a prayer for those who beg in India.
I love your blog. I also feel that India is a difficult place. I have a lot of empathy for those caught in the caste system---I will even give them some money if they will let me buy a bus ticket and go where I want to go without so much hassle.
Post a Comment